Tuesday, November 25, 2008

Traveling Faux-Pas/ weekend in Pau

Blvd des Pyrennes

Weekend in Pau Nov 21st-23rd

This weekend I stayed in Pau. We were unlucky with the weather since it rained the whole time, but that didn’t stop us from having a great time. There are Christmas lights all over Pau now, but they still haven’t turned them on. Rumor has it that they are going to turn them on next week. J’èspere! My friend Addie went to Paris with her family last weekend and said that the Christmas decorations are already lit. I can’t wait to see them all during the few days that I’ll be there before returning to the U.S. On Friday night in Pau, Natalie, Paula, and I went to this awesome Moroccan restaurant. Some other USAC kids discovered it after one of our excursions and gave it raving reviews, so, we decided to check it out. From the street it seemed like a little, hole-in-the-wall restaurant, but I was amazed by how large it was, and by how far it extended. Instead of chairs there were couches with all sorts of colorful, ornately decorate pillows. The whole restaurant was an explosion of color- even the lights were disguised as stain glass lanterns. I know it sounds gaudy, but it worked. We got to sit in the back room where they were playing this crazy Moroccan music. There was a large “business” dinner in that room too; there were some middle-aged people sitting there that had definitely had too much to drink. There was this old guy who was practically dancing on the table to the Moroccan music. It was hilarious! They kept trying to talk to us, and seemed like they were having a blast. After their dinner you could see them signing contracts haha. I guess that’s how they do business in France.

Afterwards we met up with some friends at a club by the Chateau. It was in an area we hadn’t been to before so we were kind of disoriented on our walk home. After about a half hour of walking, and crossing a river that I never knew existed, we realized that we were walking in the completely wrong direction! We ended up at the end of Jurançon, a popular wine region that neighbors Pau, and if we had walked another half hour we would have been in Spain! We started seeing signs for Bayonne, Hendaye, and SPAIN. Then we had to back track to downtown Pau and walk back to the dorms from there. It took us an hour & a half to get home and it should have taken twenty minutes. We were laughing the whole way home though, realizing that we had made such a silly mistake. To give us our due, there is a long street that leads to Jurançon and another street with the same name in Pau that, so I can see why we thought we were going the right way, sort of. Not to mention that it was pouring rain the entire time. I was the only one who had happened to bring an umbrella, but I was still soaked.

There we were in the pouring rain walking to Spain….One thing that drives me crazy about France is that there are never any street signs! You have to walk blocks sometimes before finding a street sign, not to mention that there are all of these weird little side streets, and very few many boulevards. This makes it exceptionally challenging to navigate, especially in the dark. Our map was so wet from the rain that we started sticking it against the backs of the bus stops, signs, and buildings, whatever. When Natalie showed me the map the next day I laughed so hard- it was completely ripped and smudged. Our little detour in the rain definitely took a toll on it. No worries we will get another one at the Tourism Office this week.

On Saturday I went to “La Fête de Livres”. This festival is a huge book fair that Pau hosts every year. Normally you have to pay for it, but this year it was free. When we first arrived there, it was not what we expected. There were booths everywhere with pamphlets and representatives behind them. It looked like either a college fair or a job fair. I guessed right because it ended up being for “L’Ecole Supérieure”. I picked up a pamphlet for my french university UPPA (Université de Pau et des Pays de L’Adour). Our french teachers had told us about La Fête de Livres and I couldn’t believe that this was it, so asked someone and figured out that we were in the wrong building. When we finally got there it was more what I expected. There were stations of books, lots of authors, and readings etc... You know me, put me in a room of books and you can’t get me to leave. I could tell that my friends were getting bored after awhile so I reluctantly left to go shopping downtown.

We walked around and shopping for awhile and then met our friends Josh for dinner. We went to a fondue restaurant by the Chateau. It was my first time having fondue at a restaurant so it was pretty exciting. They brought out 3 large pots of fondue of all different kinds and we dipped small pieces of bread in them with our skewer-things. The rule was that if you dropped your bread in the fondue then you would have to kiss the person to your left. No one actually abided by that rule though, probably because someone dropped their bread in the fondue pot every other second.

Random side note, this was an exciting weekend for les Palois (what they call people from Pau) because a new wine just came out from this region. The entire town in raving about it and even our teachers and program directors are insisting that everyone try it. It’s cheaper to buy in Pau than anywhere else, and I believe that it is only available in certain regions at the moment. It’s called Beaujolais Villages Nouveau 2008. I tried it this week and even the cheapest bottle (I’m on a budget so of course we bought the cheapest one) was still incredible. Maybe we will splurge at the end of the quarter and buy a 4 or 5 Euro bottle of wine, god forbid. Wine is so cheap here that I am definitely going to have a hard time watching people spend so much money on it when I go back to the U.S.


Travel Faux-Pas

Besides my little story about getting stuck in Belgium there have been many other “tragic” events with other groups of USAC travelers. I thought that you might enjoy hearing them.

Story number one- the Italy girls

So the weekend that I went to Ireland some of my other friends went to Rome, Italy. On the way back to Pau they planned on taking a Ryan Air flight from Rome to Brussels. Unfortunately the Italians decided that they didn’t want to work that day and decided to go on strike for a week. On top of that, their flight was one of the last flights that would have been allowed to take-off, but apparently a bunch of birds flew into the engine so they decided to cancel their flight too. All flights were canceled for a week so they had to no other choice but to take the train home. It cost 300 Euro for them to endure a 20 hour train voyage, not to mention the layover time in between trains. They took the train from Rome to Paris, from Paris to Switzerland, and from Switzerland back to Pau. You did not want to talk to any of them the next day because they were so pissed off about how their trip ended. To an outside observer who didn’t have to endure that it sounded pretty funny. I couldn’t help, but laugh when my friend Laura told me the story.


Everyone seemed to have travel problems that week. Another group of USAC students went to Barcelona for the long weekend. They didn’t miss any flights, but definitely ran into problems in the Brussels airport, yet again. We decided that Brussels is the Bermuda Triangle of Europe, everyone gets stuck there. This girl Abbey had pepper spray in her purse, just for safety like most girls who have it. When she went through security though, she was hassled and had to fill out a police report. They almost missed their flight because of it.


This same group of travelers also had traveling mishaps when they went to Ireland last week. This girl Julie realized the morning that they were supposed to leave that she didn’t know where her passport was. They spent hours searching for it all over Dublin, but had no luck finding it. She proceeded to the airport without it and somehow they let her out of Ireland, probably because she had checked in online and had another form of ID. In Brussels though, they ran into problems. There was a strike for some reason at the Brussels airport now, quel surprise, and there were no flights out of Brussels for over a week. They could have taken the train, but like we discovered during our Belgium experience, the train was way expensive. So, they decided to rent a car in Brussels and to drive back to Pau. It took them two days to get to Toulouse, spending one night in Paris. Then from Toulouse they had to take a 2 hour train ride back to Pau. What a crazy weekend!


Speaking of cars, did I tell you the story about my English friends who rented a car to drive from Pau to Madrid? Well, this British kid Tom (he’s my french class, but hardly ever goes) him and his friends rented a small van to drive to Spain for the weekend. Remember that in England they drive on the opposite side of the road. France is the same as the U.S. though. Since they weren’t used to sitting on the left side of the car to drive, they were at a disadvantage from the start. His friend C.J. took the first driving shift. I guess that is was really foggy driving through the mountains, because they got a ticket for driving too slowly! Then Tom got pissed off at C.J. so he decided to drive. The same instant that we was pulling back onto the road C.J. yelled, “ on your left!”, as a reminder to turn left, but Tom thought that someone was coming from the left and freaked out, driving into the center divider of the highway. There were just a couple scratches on the car, because they were driving pretty slowly. Then, when he decided to finally pull back onto the road he wasn’t paying attention and hit another car. Their car was still functioning after that, but pretty beat up looking. They had to pay a 1000 Euro fine between them since they damaged the car. Tant pis!

I’m going to Barcelona this weekend and I really hope that our trip goes smoothly, especially with all of the adventures that everyone has had with the European transportation systems.

So what have we learned from all of these people???

1. Europeans like to go on strike randomly, so try to not plan trips when you have important engagements soon after your return.
2. Don’t take a connecting flight with Ryan Air. Just don’t do it! They only fly point to point and will make you pay for another flight, even if it’s their fault that you missed it. Only fly direct with Ryan Air.
3. Don’t bring pepper spray, wine openers or bottles of wine in your carry-on (even if it’s a gift for the people you’re staying with). They will be taken from you, and you might get in trouble with the law.
4. Guard your passport with your life!
5. Don’t rent a car! It’s crazy driving in Europe, especially France. If you have to, be ready to pay some heavy fines if anything happens to it. Also, remember gas is expensive.
6. Don’t trust British people to drive you around in France when they’re not used to driving on the right sides of the road. I was invited to go with them the first time, and I guess it’s a good thing that I didn’t!
7. But finally and most importantly……don’t get too worked up over traveling mishaps. If you learn to embrace every moment that you are in Europe, even if you’re stuck on a train for 20 hours, you will be much happier with your experience. Just enjoy the people you’re with and know that you will have a great story to tell afterwards. This is all part of the abroad experience!!

Bon Voyage!


Sunday, November 23, 2008

St. Bertrand de Comminges, France

View from the top of Château de Mauvezin
My knight in shining armor

Château de Mauvezin





Les Pyrennes


another view from the top






Un chat français


Le cloître de St. Bertrand de Comminges





Autumn leaves







Natalie & I in St. Bertrand de Comminges

Lft to rt: me, Evelyn, Laura.


Last weekend we went on a USAC excursion to St. Bertrand de Comminges. There, we visited the Chateau and the Roman Ruins. Originally, St. Bertrand de Comminges was a popular rest-spot before crossing the Pyrenees and continuing into Spain. There’s lots of snow on the Pyrenees now so I definitely got some great pictures.

Afterwards we had lunch at a small, family run restaurant in the town. Our abroad program organizes the lunches for our excursions so everything is pre-selected. They are always good so it is never a problem ….until now. Our first course was a vegetable & potato soup, which was amazing since it was freezing out. Then we had some sort of meat dish. It was really chewy, almost raw in areas, and none of us could figure out exactly what it was. After eating half of it, and leaving the raw looking bits aside, we thought of asking the waiter what it was but decided that it would be rude. My friend Jimmy suggested that it might be rabbit! We all looked at each other and cringed, but there was nothing that we could do at that point. Well, my mom always tells me to try new things…haha. It actually tasted good, but maybe because I was starving from all of our site-seeing. We had La mousse au chocolat for dessert and ça est toujours délicieuse !!

After that we saw the caves of Gangas. There are really famous pre-historic cave paintings inside. It was cool so see because we have studied about these specific paintings in art history. We were in a cave for a half an hour on the tour. It was kind of creepy with cave water dripping everywhere and only faint lighting to mark our path. It really was amazing how the paintings and carvings are still there, dating from Paleolithic times. Afterwards we went to Chateau de Mauvezin. This was a fortress with all sorts of war replicas inside. There was also definitely the best view of the Pyrenees that I have seen!

Thursday, November 13, 2008

Dublin, Ireland & Brussels, Belgium

Dublin
Anna, Carol, me, Kate




From left to rt: Kate, Amy, & me.





The Guinness Factory





My complimentary pint (notice the 4 leaf clover drawn in the foam!)


Trinity College



Amy & I in the Trinity Library



With Aunt Anna


Brussels

Chocolate covered strawberries in Belgium!


La Grand Place



La Grand Place at night
Imitations of Le Mannequin Pis





On Saturday November 8th I left with my friends Evelyn, Sean, and Natalie to go to Dublin, Ireland. We took the train to Biarritz and then flew with Ryan Air directly to Dublin. Evelyn and I stayed in the city center, close to Grafton Street, for one night and then stayed with our family friends Kate & Amy for the rest of the time. The night we got there it was pouring rain so we decided to go to a pub since it wasn’t the best day for sight-seeing. We had fish & chips and Irish sausages, and of course some Guinness. When we walked out the pub to go explore the areas around our hotel, it was already dark out and only 4:00pm. I was amazed by how early it gets dark in the winter time in Ireland. That night we went to UCD (one of the main universities in Dublin) and met up with Kate & Amy. We’ve known each other forever, since our mom’s were best friends growing up. Some friends from Kate’s international business masters program were having a party at their dorm. All of the international kids live on campus, but if your family lives in Dublin it’s really hard to get on-campus housing. She had friends from Hungary, Spain, and the Netherlands. They had a really cool set-up in their dorm because they have a huge kitchen and a seating area where they could eat together. It was like a mini restaurant with at least 10 big tables. It definitely had a very social feel, and they said that it’s not uncommon to have parties there all the time. Later that night we went downtown to Temple Bar. There were definitely a lot of young people out. Since there are so many colleges in Dublin there are a lot of people who are in their 20s that frequent the pubs.

Sunday was the big sight-seeing day! We started off the morning with a Starbucks. They don’t have any chain coffee stores in the south of France so it was actually nice to be able to get coffee “to go”. Evelyn works at Starbucks at home, so she wanted to stop there to get an Irish Starbucks mug to bring back to her boss. Since all Starbucks look the same it felt like home lol. With our coffee in hand we caught the big green tourist bus by St. Stephen’s Green. We rode the bus all around the city, taking advantage of the rain-free morning. At the Guinness Factory we decided to hop off the bus. It was incredible- like Charlie & the Chocolate Factory, only for adults. While waiting in line, we watched Guinness commercials that were playing on various TV screens. There were a lot that I had never seen before so that was entertaining. The Guinness Factory had a total of 7 floors. As you ascend to each floor, a different part of the Guinness making process is described. I learned more than I ever wanted to know about Guinness! We even got to taste a new type of Guinness that is only available in Ireland in the tasting room. It was good, but I prefer the original. We finally completed our tour and stopped at the “Gravity bar” to get our complimentary pint of Guinness. The entire room was enclosed in glass, so that you could see all of Dublin. We had a great view!

Upon leaving the Guinness factory we rode the bus around the city a little more, had a late lunch, did some souvenir shopping, and then Kate and her Dad picked us up from our hotel and we went over to their house for dinner. We definitely needed a chill night after the night before and a fun-filled day of touring adventures!

The next day we took the DART into to town to meet Amy at Trinity College. She had a class early that morning and met Evelyn and I afterwards to give us a tour of the campus. We went to see the book of Kells and saw the famous Trinity Library. The book of Kells is one of the oldest manuscripts that was transcribed by Celtic monks around 800 B.C. It was embellished with ornate Celtic swirls and designs. After examining the book, we went up stairs to the original Trinity College library. It looked like something out of Harry Potter. It’s not open for studying and you’re not even supposed to take pictures.

After finishing our Trinity tour we went shopping on Grafton Street and O'Connell Street and then met up with my Aunt Anna. She was nice enough to drive up from Limerick for the weekend. She took us to lunch at the Shelbourne Hotel, across from St. Stephen’s Green. This is one of the oldest, most celebrated hotels in all of Ireland. Anna said, “If Obama came to Dublin this is where they would have him stay” Haha. It was definitely a treat! I ordered a cheese burger and fries. I haven’t had cheddar cheese since I left the U.S., since you can’t get it in France, so it was really exciting! After lunch we went upstairs to the Constitution room. This is the room where the Irish Constitution was written, which is part of the reason why this hotel is so famous. Then we went to visit my mom’s cousin Penelope. She is in good form and it was a lot of fun to see her again! :) That night Evelyn, Kate, and I went to see the new James Bond movie, Quantum of Solace. It’s been out in Europe since October, but I thought that seeing it in french would take away from it, so we decided to see it in Ireland in English.

We left early the next morning and took a Ryan Air flight from Dublin to Brussels.

This is where the story gets good……………

So our plane from Dublin to Brussels arrived 25 minutes late. We had to catch our connection flight from Brussels to Pau, but they wouldn’t let us because we had to be through security and checked-in at least 40 min before our flight. We missed it by five minutes!
To make things worse, there were no other flights going to Pau until Thursday; it was Tuesday morning.
Now we had two options. To take a 15 hour train back to Pau and this was not cheap. They also wouldn’t have let us use our Carte 12-25 (discount card) since we weren’t in France. Our other option was to book a flight for 11:20 Thursday morning and to enjoy our time in Brussels.

As you probably guessed, we chose the second, more appealing option. We found a hostel and then went out to explore the city. I had never been to Belgium before and it was way cooler than I expected. It is one of the wealthiest countries in the world, which was evident from the cleanliness of the city and by the amount of locals’ fine dining on weeknights. They mainly speak French in Belgium, even though it is historically Dutch-speaking. Presently, they speak mainly French with a mix of English and Dutch. Sometimes when we would try to talk to someone they would be speaking a French/ Dutch combo which was really difficult to understand. They also have a very different accent. Even in the airport the guys working at the ticket office were making fun of me for talking with a south-western French pronunciation. In the south of France everyone pronounced “Oui” like “Way” instead of “Wee”.

Even at the tourism office, the people working there said, “so you’re from France, you have a very interesting accent.” And I replied that’s because I’m American!
It was also confusing because they say certain numbers differently in Belgium. Par exemple, en France they say “quatre-vingt-quinze” for 75. Par contre, en Belgique they say septant-cinq. Quel bizarre !!
That night we walked around the city, ate some Kebabs for dinner, and then discovered a famous Belgium bar that has 2500 types of Belgium beer. All of the tables were beer barrels, and there were serving trays with names of different Belgium beers on the ceiling and the walls. Originally we were sitting up stairs and these two guys came up to us speaking in some crazy language and I had no idea what they were saying. They went on for at least minute, and then after realizing our perplexed faces they said, “Oh, you don’t speak Hungarian?!” Haha. It happened again later when this elderly lady was trying to tell us something. Everyone speaks so many languages there, it was pretty confusing.
The next day we explored the city!! We went to all sorts of Chateaus and my favorite location, La Grande Place. The architecture in Brussels is incredible! Every block there is a huge church or monument. It was way cleaner and the buildings have been better preserved than in France. Maybe that’s why it’s the capital of the European Union! We also went to see” Le Mannequin Pis”, which translated to “the little boy who pees”. This statue had so much hype about it all over the city, but was kind of a let-down. It was pretty funny, It’s a fountain where the water comes of this little boy statue so that it looks like he’s peeing. I just thought that it would be bigger, since even in our hostel there was a copy cat of Le Mannequin Pis that was as big as, if not bigger, than the original. After seeing that fountain, we got Belgium waffles! Yum! They were amazing. Good thing I’m not studying abroad there because I would eat them every day. Lol.
That night went back to the Belgium beer tavern and met a bunch of Americans who are studying in the Netherlands. A lot of them spoke Dutch and a little french. They were definitely fun to hang out with and to discuss our different abroad experiences. The amount of Americans that are studying abroad in various countries amazes me! There are so many of us over here when you think of all of the abroad programs and all of the different countries that you can study in. C’est incroyable!

I would definitely recommend going to Belgium. Overall I had a great trip! It was even better because it was an extended vacation that was not planned and everything we did there was totally spur of the moment. We definitely made the best of what could have been a bad situation! Ireland and Belgium were amazing! :)